Why collectors look for Karl Lagerfeld-era Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld took over as creative director of Chanel in 1983 and held the role until his death in 2019. In those thirty-six years he took the codes Gabrielle Chanel left behind (tweed, the quilted flap, the chain strap, the interlocking Cs) and made them modern without losing what made them Chanel.

For collectors, pieces from his tenure carry a particular appeal. The craftsmanship is exceptional, many styles are no longer produced, and the designs read as instantly Chanel yet quietly distinctive.

What to look for

• Tweed with character. Lagerfeld loved texture: fringed hems, woven trims and jeweled buttons that turn a jacket into an heirloom.
• Understated logos. Some of the most sought-after bags from the 1990s carry tonal, embroidered branding rather than oversized hardware.
• Clean interiors and original labels. A "Made in France" or "Made in Italy" label, serial stickers and cards help tell a piece's story.

In the collection now

Two understated black leather totes from this era are available: a caviar leather tote with an Authenticate First certificate and a minimal 90s shoulder tote. Both have the quiet confidence that makes vintage Chanel worth seeking out.